1 week, 4 days ago

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I heard a small story circulating in the circle: when master Deng Huadong opened dengji food garden in Shanghai, he was said to be not cooking Sichuan food. It is said that the same thing happened when he opened dengji food garden in Hong Kong. 

However, such words have never been heard in songyunze, furonghuang and Xuanxuan courtyard in Chengdu, and it seems that no one has ever questioned whether Yujia kitchen and Lanting thirteen kitchen are Sichuan cuisine. 

Preface

1

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 after yuzhilan in Shanghai finished eating, manager Tian and kiven told me that yuzhilan was not Sichuan cuisine, but rather Cantonese cuisine. The guests who came to yuzhilan thought that Sichuan cuisine should be spicy and spicy rather than fresh with soup. 

When I hear the story of master Deng, I can only sigh with a sigh. After all, Sichuan cuisine at that time was the world of the lake cuisine, and people's cognition of Sichuan cuisine was greatly biased. In order to break through the special market environment in the early years, Sichuan cuisine industry naturally formed the fruit of spicy and oily food. This kind of discourse is not to blame. 

But today, there are assorted biscuits, which are said to be very hard core names, define traditional Sichuan cuisine as a nanxingyuan, and diss the saying that "Sichuan cuisine is not only spicy". In the context that more and more restaurants in Chengdu Sichuan cuisine industry are recalling "rich flavor type, complex flavor type and Sichuan banquet reproduction", yuzhilan in Shanghai has heard the words "you are not Sichuan cuisine". 

I think we should give a good account of Sichuan cuisine. 

Preface

2

//

This is an article that I may need to keep for a long time to be published. But if Sichuan cuisine can only be regarded as "advanced" when it goes out, which leads to all kinds of worthless misunderstandings, then the words at the bottom of the caisson will have meaning. 

Me and 
 @ Erya
 It took the teacher nearly a month to sort out the context of the development of Sichuan cuisine. The most important part of "sprouting and shaping of contemporary Sichuan cuisine" is identified and quoted from the modern part of the history of Chinese Sichuan cuisine compiled by Mr. LAN Yong with historical data and references. 

In the current article, there are many details that we have added new ideas in my personal cognitive understanding and reasoning after finishing the sorting. Therefore, any unreasonable and inaccurate part is my problem, which has nothing to do with teacher Erya. 

As for the part of the lake cuisine, it is based on the historical data of Mr. LAN Yong, the oral statement of Master Zhang Yuanfu, and the inspiration brought to me by Xu chefs in Morton, Beijing. 

Therefore, I dare not say that this is an absolutely accurate content, but it must be a complete and undamaged text. In addition, I will only state the results, and the evidence part can be provided during the discussion. Otherwise, for me who only had time to code in the early morning, I would be too tired (I have worked too much recently, I hope you can understand). 

——————

Dujiangyan, well salt, unique terrain, land of abundance

//


 
 
 the development of food culture in a region is inseparable from the local products, but once the products need human intervention in large-scale production, it can not do without the basic water conservancy and irrigation system. 

The second important reason why Sichuan can become a land of abundance is Dujiangyan and well salt. Therefore, Sichuan people should thank Li Bing and his son. 

King Zhao of Qin Dynasty in 256 BC Li Bing was appointed prefect of Shu County in 1986. During his term of office, Li Bing presided over the construction of Dujiangyan, dredged the rivers of Wenjing River, baimujiang River, Luoshui River, mianshui River, etc., and established an agricultural gravity irrigation system. After discovering that the underground salt brine has a vein to be found, he proposed the methods of sinking wells, extracting brine and boiling salt, and changing the situation that Bashu salt industry relies on natural salty spring and salt rock to produce salt in small quantity and poor quality Sichuan's agricultural production and economic development have been guaranteed with high quality, and have become the "land of abundance". 

There is no abundant products and economic vitality, and there is no development of food culture. (of course, if food is too easy to obtain, it is difficult to develop a high-level culture. For example, there is still a chance to see the primitive diet in the African prairie. Another is related to the surrounding products. For example, in the primitive period, there were primitive tribes that did not come out of the stone age in areas without metal minerals). 

In short, Dujiangyan and well salt have laid the foundation for rapid development in Sichuan. At the same time, Sichuan has been a closed and separate area since ancient times because of the natural danger surrounding the surrounding mountains. 

In the era of plane war, except for the great decline of population caused by the war in more than 200 years from the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Three Kingdoms to the end of the Western Jin Dynasty, the land of Bashu was relatively stable and prosperous without the direct influence of the war during the more than 1500 years from being included in the territory of Qin state to the Southern Song Dynasty. 

This is basically opposite to the population development of other major areas in China at that time, that is to say, in the middle ancient times, Bashu people basically lived in comfort. 

During these years, the northerners were the main immigrants for the three large-scale immigrants to Sichuan; however, from the Southern Song Dynasty to the Anti Japanese War, the three large-scale immigrants became mainly southerners, so that Sichuan people still maintain the habit of eating rice and noodles as staple food. 

Today, when we talk about Sichuan cuisine, people who are familiar with it know that this is a fusion cuisine, and then they will show six immigrants from Sichuan to prove the fusion gene of Sichuan cuisine. 

However, among the immigration activities which have the greatest impact on contemporary Sichuan cuisine, the first four migrations in ancient times are of little significance, and the reasons should start from the song and Mongolian war. 

 
 2 population decline and cultural fault 
 
 2//


 
 
 the song and Yuan war, one of the main battlefields in Sichuan, was devastated by the Mongolian army's repeated plunder and plunder for more than 50 years. The number of households in Sichuan decreased by more than 90%. The so-called "small fault of ancient culture in Bashu" appeared. 

Until the collapse of the Yuan Dynasty, the population recovery in Sichuan was slow and powerless. In addition, under the circumstances that the rulers of the Yuan Dynasty were familiar with the old customs, despicable to the old customs and bad in the foreword, the catering culture in Bashu area faced the devastating impact of the war for the first time. 

During the 300 year reign of the Ming Dynasty, there was the first "Huguang filling Sichuan" immigration tide, and the population of Sichuan had a significant recovery. However, the Ming and Qing wars once again led to a sharp drop of more than 90% of the population in Sichuan (another story about brother Zhang Xianzhong can be found out). 

Therefore, until the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, the indigenous people in Sichuan almost no longer existed. Today, the so-called "Sichuan ancient method" and so on are just concepts. It is hard to say that yuzhilan's colorful noodles were made by the ancient Shu people in the past. However, today's fruit and vegetable juice noodles are not the same as those of the ancient Shu Dynasty. Even if they are pulled together, they can only be used as a reason Tell the story. 

The former part is all about Sichuan and Sichuan people's stories, which is a little long as a cushion. All of these want to explain one thing: in the era of plane war, Sichuan had the advantage of a safe haven. Although the ancient Bashu culture has been broken, this advantage has just made Sichuan cuisine of the current generation. 

 
 3 Huguang filling Sichuan 
 
 3//

<img class="content-image" src=" https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-cfaf48269a5446ccfa17edfdcdca7b77_ b. At the time of the formation of contemporary Sichuan cuisine, Sichuan's geographical advantages played an important role. However, we should first popularize knowledge. 

Any species that can be called "cuisine" must have a basic premise - it is a complete system, not just a special local flavor. 

It can be called a cuisine, the most basic of which is composed of civilian diet and official diet. Snacks, public dinners, home cooked dishes, agricultural banquets and banquets must be available. Moreover, it has rich cooking techniques, wide selection of food materials, and clear and independent local characteristics. 

Therefore, I only agree with the four major cuisines. 

<img class="content-image" src=" https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-dec7ef56a884e3d39396ab647876ffa7_ b. In 1664, the Qing government issued an imperial edict on recruiting people to fill in Sichuan in the 33rd year of Kangxi, which wrote: "those poor people in all provinces who bring their wives to Sichuan for reclamation shall be allowed to naturalize", and enjoy the preferential policy of never paying taxes for the breeding population. More than ten provinces, such as Hubei, Guangdong, Jiangxi, Shaanxi and Fujian, began to flood into Sichuan. 

The immigration policy was stopped in 1727, but the wave of immigration continued to the middle of Qianlong. This century long wave of immigration made the number of immigrants in Sichuan far exceed the local residents. This is the famous second "Huguang filling Sichuan". Today, people often say that "filling Sichuan" basically refers to the second time, which has little to do with the first time. 

The first filling in Sichuan was a spontaneous act, and the second was a government policy, and the policy lasted for 63 years, not counting the later policy inertia. It is conceivable that the civilian diet culture of contemporary Sichuan cuisine was established in this great integration. 

This policy is similar to today's talent introduction plan, attracting a large number of poor people to Sichuan, and has an important impact on the establishment of civilian food culture. Therefore, the depth of Sichuan civilian culture is natural. In my opinion, the most important influence on Sichuan cuisine civilian diet is Hakka, Hubei, Guizhou, Shaanxi, Shanxi, Fujian, etc. 

Until today, there are still Hakkas who can speak Sichuan style Hakka in Luodai Ancient Town of Chengdu area. The three steamed and nine buckles of Sichuan Agricultural banquet also have the shadow of Hakka agricultural mat. 

In today's view, people in Western Shaanxi mainly brought pasta, but left great changes, for example: burning noodles. Many people say that the reason why burning noodles are called burning noodles is that they are dry and rich in oil and easy to ignite. But in fact, the earliest burning noodles in Chengdu were the varieties of oil splashed noodles. The sound of splashing oil was like the sound of burning. This practice is recorded in many old recipes. If you are interested, you can find a Sichuan cuisine cookery story. As for how Yibin Ramen was formed, I didn't find much information about it, so I couldn't start it out (in a word, sprouts are salty and sweet). 

It is also said that the thick noodles of sweet water surface are also from Shaanxi, but I have forgotten where the specific source is,

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