3 days, 10 hours ago

 
 how important is the travel time accuracy of mechanical watch? Should we pay attention to the accuracy of mechanical watch? In other words, how important is accurate travel time for mechanical watches? This is a question that many new wristwatch friends will have. 

In this regard, there are two different voices on the Internet: "quite important" and "indifferent". 

 in fact, similar questions are old age stalks in the domestic watch circles. They were brought to make complaints about "Shanxi coal bosses" by salesmen of the watch shop more than 10 years ago. In the eyes of shop assistants, it is second only to playing golf, taking a bath and sauna and not stringing the watch. The implication is: the guy who is fussy about the accuracy of mechanical watch is only worthy of cheap quartz watch. 


 
 
 
 I want to buy two watches, which satirized the local tyrant's buying a watch

As time goes by, a culture, or prejudice, has formed in the domestic watch circle. It thinks that even if the error of high-grade mechanical watch is larger, it doesn't matter. Anyway, it will be better to calibrate it every three to five, which does not affect the time of watching. Moreover, the more senior watch friends, the less they talk about related topics. If you talk about them, it seems that your realm is not high, and the understanding level of wristwatch is limited, so it is difficult to be elegant. 

Especially with the popularity of high-end watches as a symbol of wealth and status, the accuracy of their travel has become increasingly irrelevant. After all, what we wear is the brand and the taste. As for the watch, it is not accurate. Only the wearer knows it in his mind. Besides, there are so many intelligent electronic devices nowadays, why do we have to watch the time with a mechanical watch? 


 
 
 
 the time display is only the simplest function of the IWC universal calendar chronometer
However, in the kingdom of Swiss watches and clocks, the same question may lead to quite different conclusions. All the Swiss watchmakers and salesmen I've been in contact with regard to the precise travel time of mechanical watches. What is too reasonable is easy to be ignored from words, just as smartphone manufacturers never emphasize the call function of mobile phones. 
In fact, accuracy has always been the cornerstone of Swiss mechanical watches. 


 
 
 maybe many friends have heard of Rolex Oyster watch's "first show" on the world stage. It was in 1927 that British female swimmer messidis Glazer successfully crossed the English Channel (the first woman to complete the feat). The Rolex Oyster watch on her wrist was soaked in seawater for 10 hours without any damage, which fully proved the water resistance of the watch (the previous pocket watch didn't need to be waterproof at all), and Rolex was famous for it. 


 
 
 
 Rolex Oyster wristwatch is famous all over the world with Mercedes 
 
 dis Glazer's feat of crossing the English Channel

 but many people don't know that this is not the first time Rolex has become famous for its pioneering work. As early as in the first decade of the 20th century, the wristwatch at that time was a completely new thing. Its volume was far smaller than that of the pocket watch, and its internal structure and travel time accuracy had not been tested in practice. In order to prove that the wristwatch produced by ourselves has the same reliability and accuracy as the pocket watch, Hans wilsdorf Hans willsdorf, the founder of Rolex, began to play a big game: 
 
 in 1910, Rolex sent the watch to bill Observatory in Switzerland for testing, and obtained the world's first wrist watch precision timing certificate. Rolex was not satisfied with this. Four years later, he sent a small lady's watch to the Kew Observatory for testing. On July 15, 1914, Rolex received the "a" certification of the observatory, becoming the first wristwatch in the world. 


 
 
 
 Rolex's "a" certificate from the Royal Astronomical Observatory

 here we need to know something about the Royal Observatory: the observatory was established in 1769, and its main responsibility is to test and certify the marine astronomical clock (nautical precise timer). As we all know, in the era of navigation with underdeveloped science and technology, the positioning of ships at sea must rely on the navigation astronomical clock, and every second error of the navigation astronomical clock will lead to a positioning error of about 500 meters. This is of great significance to the Royal Navy, which is shouldering the heavy responsibility of opening up and expanding the territory. Naturally, it is necessary to carry out the most stringent test and certification. 

Although all the European observatories had similar responsibilities at that time, none of them could meet the class a certificate of the Royal Observatory. It takes 45 days of continuous testing (compared to the Swiss Observatory's standard of 15 days) and is carried out in five different directions and three different temperatures with an error range of only a few seconds. 


 
 
 
 the marine astronomical clock produced by Athens watch has its own gyroscope device which can keep stable in the fluctuating sea water

 therefore, when Rolex was awarded a "class a" certificate from the Royal Observatory in 1914, it was undoubtedly the most powerful proof of the "legitimacy" of the watch. 

In the next hundred years, Rolex has always been a gold lettered signboard of Swiss watches and clocks in terms of production scale, credibility and influence. It is also one of the most persistent watch making brands in the world. 

Each Rolex Oyster style dial is marked with accuracy certification at 6 o'clock. Originally (in the 1920s and 1930s), it was marked with "chronometer - precise chronometer", and later upgraded to "officially certified chronometer - Official Observatory certified precision chronometer", and now known as "superlative chronometer officially certified - Top Observatory certified precision chronometer", the accuracy of Rolex watch has been constantly improving. 


 
 
 
 at 6 o'clock on the dial, the logo of" supervisory chronometer officially certified - precision chronometer certified by the top Observatory "is on the dial at 6 o'clock

 today Rolex's top Observatory is certified with a daily error of - 2 / + 2 seconds. You should know that the speed of the second hand is 4 times in a second, 240 times in a minute, 14400 times in an hour, and 345600 times in a day. If you calculate the oscillation frequency of the core (hairspring cycloid) and multiply it by 2, that is, it runs nearly 700000 times a day, and the cumulative error is less than 2 seconds - imagine how adverse the requirements for processing and debugging are. Besides, the annual output of Rolex is nearly one million, and every watch has to meet this standard, so you can understand why Rolex is plain and boring. 


 
 
 
 in fact, Rolex is only one of the Swiss watch brands that attach the most importance to accuracy certification, not the only one. 

At the end of 2017, Phillips Fuchs auctioned an antique Omega watch in Geneva, which sold for 1.43 million Swiss francs (nearly 10 million yuan), making it the most valuable Omega in the world. 


 
 
 
 the world's most expensive Omega Watch

From the front, it's just an ordinary three needle steel watch. But turn it over and you will find that it is actually a tourbillon watch, and it is the first Tourbillon watch made in Switzerland. 


 
 
 
 the back of the watch is equipped with a tourbillon device 


In 1947, in order to make another success in the observatory test competition (omega set the accuracy record of the Royal Observatory of England in 1933), Omega specially made 12 Tourbillon movements with a diameter of 30 mm (the tourbillon can offset the vertical downward gravity through rotation, thus improving the travel time). 

In the next five years, the 12 movements took part in the "watch" category tests conducted by the nashatel Observatory in Switzerland, the Geneva Observatory and the Kew Teddington Observatory (the new name adopted by the Royal Observatory after its relocation to Teddington), respectively, and got the highest score in the tests conducted by the Geneva Observatory in 1950. 

<img class="content-image" src=" https://pic1.zhimg.com/v2-a3eea51eb6e2645ccf21ec579a1e4804_ b. What is not known is that in addition to the 12 Tourbillon movements, Omega produced a tourbillon watch in 1947, which set an auction record. It is about 40 years ahead of other Tourbillon watches on the market. If Omega did not "indulge" in the observatory competition and climb the skill tree of the tourbillon watch at any cost, the premature infant would not have been born, and the value of tens of millions would have been out of question. 

 today's Omega watches not only meet the certification standards of COSC Swiss official Observatory, but also cooperate with "metas - Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology" to create a new and perfect Observatory certification system, which can control the travel time error of mechanical watches within 0 / + 5 seconds per day, and can resist 15000 000 Gauss magnetic field, enough to compete with Rolex's top Observatory certification. 


 
 
 
 Omega 
 
 cooperated with "metas - Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology" to establish a new certification system for the observatory
The middle Tourbillon watch created by Omega has inherited the brand

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